Friday Briefing: Portugal’s finest (by Michelin)
Good morning and welcome to PORTUGAL DECODED. The 2025 Michelin Guide gala cemented Portugal’s status as a top-tier culinary destination. Here’s what to know, including the best value-for-money spots.
TALK OF THE TOWN
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POLITICS
In the wake of his recent visit to Washington DC, French President Emmanuel Macron began a two-day state visit to Portugal, with an emphasis on European defence initiatives amid the ongoing Ukraine conflict (More).
Today, a bombshell report by Expresso reveals that PM Luís Montenegro’s family business continues to be on the payroll of Solverde, a company managing casinos and hotels in Portugal, receiving a monthly fee of 4,500 euros (More).
SOCIETY
The Parliament is set to approve amendments to the Land Law today, restricting land reclassification to public housing, affordable rentals, or controlled-cost housing while scraping the controversial “moderate value” concept (More).
The Director of the Judiciary Police (PJ) dismissed any link between immigration and crime. He emphasized the distinction between foreigners and immigrants, noting that foreign nationals make up 27% of all detainees in Portugal (More).
ECONOMICS
China’s CALB, one of the world’s largest battery makers for electric vehicles, announced an investment of 2 billion euros ($2.09 billion) in a gigafactory in Portugal that is expected to represent 4% of Portugal’s GDP at full capacity (More).
Taxpayers have until today - February 28 - to validate invoices through the Portal das Finanças or the e-Fatura application, so that the expenses can be counted as IRS deductions (More).
CULTURE AND SPORTS
The Albuquerque Foundation opened in Sintra, showcasing the world’s largest private Chinese porcelain collection in a beautifully restored country manor by renowned Brazilian architects Bernardes Arquitetura (More).
A new study on Portuguese students’ reading habits revealed that girls own more books than boys at all education levels. It also found that nearly one in four primary and secondary school students have fewer than 20 books at home (More).
DECODER
The 2025 Michelin Guide gala, held Tuesday night at Alfândega do Porto, had it all: surprises, drama, and even a touch of awkwardness. While the long-awaited first three-star restaurant didn’t materialize, there was still much to celebrate. A record-breaking eight new stars were awarded, raising Portugal’s total to 46 starred restaurants. Michelin Guide director Gwendal Poullennec hailed the country’s vibrant culinary scene, calling Portugal “an exciting and growing culinary destination.”
Who made history?
Marlene Vieira, head chef at Marlene in Lisbon, became the first woman in over 30 years to earn a solo Michelin star in Portugal, following Maria Alice Marto, who won the distinction in 1993 and 1996 for her restaurant, Tia Alice, in Fátima. Overcome with emotion, Vieira dedicated the award to female chefs everywhere, especially in Portugal - “a country of female cooks” - urging them to keep chasing their dreams. Acknowledging the unique challenges women face in the culinary world, Vieira, a mother herself, emphasized how many give up along the way: “There aren’t as many opportunities for women because society doesn’t want to see us in charge, and we face constant criticism.” She described the honour as a “career prize” she had postponed many times to balance her personal life, particularly her role as a mother to a nine-year-old daughter. “It takes a lot of courage to leave your children with others,” she admitted.
Who got some bad news?
Celebrity chef Ljubomir Stanisic, known for his enfant terrible TV persona, was the only chef “demoted” in the 2024 Michelin awards, losing the star for his Lisbon restaurant, 100 Maneiras, in Bairro Alto. A Serbian native who made Portugal his home in 1997, Stanisic had held the distinction since it was first awarded in 2000. Reacting pragmatically to the downgrade, he stated: “Our goal isn’t awards, but recognizing the work we do every day. (…) It has been - and still is - a particularly tough year for the restaurant industry in Portugal.” Speculation swirled around the reasons for the loss. Some pointed to the restaurant’s bold culinary choices - Michelin inspectors reportedly raised eyebrows at a dish featuring maggots and onions - while others recalled Stanisic’s recent provocative remark in an interview: “A Michelin star is like a Dodot (diaper) - it’s used to wipe your arse. It gives status, it’s useful, but now it’s just there to pay the bills.”
Who didn’t show up?
Arkhe, the restaurant led by João Ricardo Alves and Alejandro Chávarro, was awarded a Michelin star, becoming the second vegetarian restaurant in Portugal to receive the distinction, following Encanto last year. But when the time came for someone to take the stage and accept the honour… nothing happened. “No one?” asked the presenter. Silence. Speaking to Time Out, Alejandro Chávarro downplayed the situation. “What happened was very simple: we were working.” “That’s the reality of an independent restaurant. Sometimes, you just can’t step away. We were working last night, and the restaurant is in high demand - we’re fully booked for the entire week, so we couldn’t go,” explained Chávarro, who went from being a customer at Arkhe to co-owner in 2020. He also highlighted the financial struggles of the past year. “The market wasn’t great, especially for lunch service. From September/October, our business dropped by almost half, and it just wasn’t sustainable. But I had 18 employees, and financially, we don’t have unlimited resources - it’s just the two of us.”
So: Is it possible to have a budget-friendly Michelin Guide meal?
Yes, it is possible to enjoy a Michelin Guide meal without breaking the bank. One of the best ways is by dining at one of the country’s 28 Bib Gourmand restaurants, a category recognizing establishments that serve exceptional food at (relatively) affordable prices. Some standout Bib Gourmand spots include Xtoria in Setúbal, known for its refined take on traditional Portuguese seafood, Machado in Maia, which serves generous portions of comforting home-cooked flavours, and A Cozinha in Guimarães, offering a modern, ingredient-driven approach. Another great option is to take advantage of affordable lunch menus at Michelin-starred and other Michelin-recognized restaurants. These curated menus offer a taste of high-end gastronomy at a fraction of the usual dinner price, making fine dining more accessible. Beyond the starred and Bib Gourmand selections, the Michelin Guide currently recommends 116 restaurants across Portugal, many of which are reasonably priced. The full list is available on the Michelin Guide website. While a Michelin-approved meal in Portugal may not be cheap, it’s certainly an experience worth indulging in every now and then.
TIPS OF THE WEEK
Lisbon
31 Women: An Exhibition by Peggy Guggenheim
In 1943 the collector Peggy Guggenheim organised one of the first exhibitions dedicated exclusively to the work of women artists in the United States at her New York gallery Art of This Century. Titled Exhibition by 31 Women, one of Guggenheim’s objectives was to highlight the contribution of women artists, who had often been dismissed as muses, imitators, or companions of famous male artists by the patriarchal mindset of the time. Through a selection and reinterpretation of pieces from this historic exhibition - including works by Frida Kahlo, Maria Helena Vieira da Silva and Dorothea Tanning - 31 Women. An Exhibition by Peggy Guggenheim at the MAC/CCB serves as both a recognition and tribute to Guggenheim’s initiative. From February 27 to June 29. Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 6:30 pm (last entry at 6 pm). More information here.
Porto
29th Porto Camellia Exhibition
Porto is the city of camellias and the month of March is the time to celebrate them. Parque de São Roque is home to more than 200 species of this flower and it is here that, on 1 and 2 March, the usual Porto Camellia Exhibition will once again take place. The event, which is free to enter, is held at this time of year to herald the arrival of spring and welcomes dozens of national and international producers and their camellias of different species, colours and shapes. The programme also includes various activities, such as concerts, workshops, theatre plays and guided tours. The official opening of the 29th edition of this exhibition takes place on Saturday 1 March at 2pm and the usual prize-giving ceremony - awarded to the best camellia of Portuguese origin, the best species and the best table ornamentation/flower arrangement - takes place at 3pm on the same day. More information here.
Braga
Kim Gordon’s Object of Projection
An icon that time seems unable to touch, Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon is a living music legend. Almost half a century into her career, she still has the same razor-sharp voice she’s always had, ever since the days when she was breaking history with the band she formed in 1981. Her practice goes far beyond music, with work in painting, she also wrote one of the most dominant literary autobiographies of the last decade, Girl in a Band (2015), and created the clothing brand X-Girl. She has released albums ranging from the art punk of No Home Record (2019) to the electronica of The Collective (2024), which was recently nominated for two Grammys. Her first exhibition in Portugal serves as a retrospective of the American artist’s work over the last decade, with special emphasis on her growing series of performative video installations. More information here.
Loulé
Carnival 2025
Portugal’s oldest Carnival, running from March 2-4 along Avenida José da Costa Mealha, will feature 15 floats, 600 performers—including samba dancers and street entertainers—oversized puppets, and plenty of political and social satire - which, hopefully, PORTUGAL DECODED readers will enjoy even more this year, armed with a deeper understanding of the satire behind the jokes! The Algarve’s ongoing drought will be highlighted in several floats, including one focused on the much-anticipated desalination plant. Another satirizes Donald Trump’s anti-immigration policies, featuring a deported Kamala Harris. A float will also mock former Prime Minister António Costa’s new role as President of the European Council. Another float will showcase Cristiano Ronaldo’s extravagant lifestyle in Saudi Arabia after his record-breaking contract renewal. The parades will run from 3 PM to 6 PM each day, with tickets priced at €2, benefiting local social causes. Loulé will also host a variety of festivities, including sports activities and the grand Carnival Gala Ball on March 3 at the town’s ballroom (Salão de Festas).
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Now, I'm hungry. 😋