Friday Briefing: The Santos Populares are here
Good morning and welcome to PORTUGAL DECODED. Just in time for a breather from politics, the Santos Populares are here. Explore the best of the season’s celebrations with our insider tips.
TALK OF THE TOWN
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POLITICS
It’s official: Chega is now Portugal’s main opposition party in Parliament after the final votes were counted. Yesterday, President Marcelo appointed Luís Montenegro as PM and the new government is set to take office on June 6 (More).
Retired Admiral Henrique Gouveia e Melo officially launched his presidential bid in Lisbon last night, pledging to be a unifying leader amid growing political disillusionment in Portugal and global uncertainty (More).
SOCIETY
A dermatologist at Lisbon’s Santa Maria Hospital, the largest in the country, is under investigation after allegedly earning €400,000 for 10 Saturdays of work under a public health program, raising concerns over misuse of taxpayer funds (More).
A Council of Europe report criticized Portugal’s judicial system for lenient sentencing and patriarchal attitudes towards victims of domestic violence (More).
ECONOMICS
The CEO of U.S. cybersecurity giant Cloudflare called Portugal “not a serious country” and threatened to scale back investment. Hours earlier, he was allegedly involved in a security incident at Cascais Tires Aerodrome (More).
TAP cancelled a Rio-Lisbon flight after refusing to let an autistic child’s assistance dog fly in the cabin, defying a court order and prompting police intervention, political backlash, and passenger disruption (More).
CULTURE AND SPORTS
Cleo Diára made history as the first Portuguese actress to win Cannes’ Un Certain Regard Best Actress prize, using her moment to highlight immigrant struggles in Portugal following the rise of the far-right in the general elections (More).
Nuno Borges and Henrique Rocha made tennis history this week after becoming the first and second Portuguese men, respectively, to reach the third round at Roland-Garros (More).
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DECODER
What are the Santos Populares and why are they important in Portugal?
The Santos Populares, or Popular Saints, are Saint Anthony (June 13), Saint John (June 24), and Saint Peter (June 29). These festivities are among the country’s most joyful and cherished traditions, filling the month with music, dancing, religious processions, and lively street parties known as arraiais. In historic neighborhoods, streets are decked out with colorful bunting and balloons, and the air is filled with the sound of live music and the smell of grilled sardines, steaks, and caldo verde (kale soup) with chorizo. Locals and visitors gather at food stalls, sharing laughter, food, and tradition late into the night. While the celebrations share common elements, each saint and region has its own unique twist, making every Santos Populares experience a little different, and all the more special.
How is Lisbon transformed during the Santo António festivities?
Lisbon bursts into life for Santo António, its patron saint. From late May, the streets fill with music, the smell of grilled sardines, and the energy of lively arraiais. The biggest celebration happens on the night of June 12, with the popular marches parading down Avenida da Liberdade. Each neighborhood presents its own unique march, complete with choreography, costumes, and music. Since 1932, Alfama has claimed the most victories, followed by Madragoa. Another key moment takes place on June 13, when the procession of Saint Anthony leaves Lisbon Cathedral in Alfama, his birthplace around 1193, and winds through the city, offering blessings to the poor, the disadvantaged, and, of course, to couples in love. Known as a matchmaker, Saint Anthony inspires the annual Marriage of Saint Anthony, where dozens of engaged couples are wed in a tradition-filled ceremony, hoping for his special blessing.
What makes São João in Porto unique?
In Porto, the São João festival on the night of June 23 is one of Portugal’s most vibrant celebrations. The city fills with music, food stalls, and colorful decorations as locals and visitors enjoy traditions like jumping bonfires, waving garlic, launching hot air balloons, and playfully tapping each other with plastic hammers, a beloved symbol of the event. The highlight is a stunning fireworks display at midnight over the River Douro and the Dom Luís I Bridge, lighting up the night sky and the Ribeira waterfront. Grilled sardines, caldo verde, and peppers fill the air with delicious aromas as crowds gather in the streets or walk toward the beach to watch the sunrise or take a morning swim. Originally rooted in religious tradition honoring Porto’s patron saint, São João, the festival has evolved into a massive street party enjoyed by all ages, blending old rituals with new energy and lasting well into dawn.
How is Saint Peter celebrated in Portugal?
Saint Peter’s Day, celebrated on June 29, is especially popular in Portugal’s coastal towns, where it honors fishermen and life by the sea. Festivities include boat processions decorated with flowers, lively street parades, and open-air feasts featuring grilled sardines and vinho verde. The highlight is Noite de São Pedro (Saint Peter’s Night), when streets and balconies are covered in paper flowers and streamers, and families gather for late-night meals, music, and fireworks. Once a quiet day marked by church services and prayers for safe voyages, the celebration has grown into a vibrant festival rooted in both faith and community. Saint Peter, long considered the protector of fishermen, remains central to the spirit of the day. Today, the festival blends old traditions with local pride, bringing together generations in a joyful tribute to those who live and work by the sea.
TIPS OF THE WEEK
Lisbon
ARCOlisboa 2025 - International Contemporary Art Fair
From May 29 to June 1, the Cordoaria Nacional will once again be the essential meeting point for collectors, gallerists, artists, and professionals from around the world. This 8th edition features participation from national and international galleries, whose projects stand out for their commitment to quality and artistic excellence.The event includes two main curated sections, The Shapes of the Ocean, which will present projects and artists reflecting on the relationships between Africa and its diaspora in other parts of the world, and Opening, which aims to introduce new artistic languages and spaces to the fair, encouraging discovery and research. ARCOlisboa opens its doors on May 29, with a day dedicated to professionals from the sector, and, from May 30, it will welcome the general public. ARCOlisboa 2025 will open its doors on May 29, with a day dedicated to professionals from the sector, and, from May 30, it will welcome the general public.
Porto
Children’s Day
From May 31 to June 2, to mark the celebrations of World Children’s Day this Sunday, the Palácio de Cristal Gardens become a magical playground where imagination takes center stage. The Children’s Festival invites kids, and the young at heart, to explore a world of creativity, color, and fun. The event opens with a major installation by artist Maria Imaginário, including the painting of the Concha Acústica. Highlights include Mais Alto! (a reflective music concert on June 1), a Mini-Porto Blues Fest (June 2), and a dance show with Academia em Movimento. Lago dos Cavalinhos hosts choir concerts, magic by José Cambra, and capoeira demonstrations. Kids can join creative workshops at Mini São João, try circus skills at Mini Trengo, design tote bags, and visit an emergency vehicle exhibition. With street basketball, canoeing, biking, horse riding, chess, and traditional games, the festival offers something for everyone. May 31 is for schools, while the weekend is all about family fun.
Matosinhos
Senhor de Matosinhos
Until June 15, Matosinhos comes alive with religious celebrations and vibrant cultural, recreational, and sporting events. From concerts and fireworks to pottery fairs and delicious street food, the Festa do Senhor de Matosinhos promises fun for all, day or night. The festivities include lively music in the streets, traditional puppet shows, and the dazzling illumination of the party grounds and the Church of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, from where the grand procession to Senhor do Padrão on June 10, the municipal holiday. Don’t miss the iconic crafts fair on Avenida D. Afonso Henriques, where you’ll find everything from ceramics to figurines at unbeatable prices. And for the full experience, indulge in churros or farturas from one of the many food stalls. Trust us: buying by the dozen is always the smart move. Full program here.
Fundão
Cherry Circuit
Enjoy the beauty of the Beira Baixa region on a scenic train journey along the winding banks of the River Tejo. Departing from Lisbon and organized by CP, this trip takes you to Castelo Branco for a visit to a cherry orchard in Fundão. Participate in the harvest, taste the famous cherries, and take some home. This year’s route includes seven departures between May 31 and June 21. The program also features a stop in Soalheira to tour the Quinta do Pomar cheese factory and sample their award-winning buttery sheep’s cheese, crowned Best in the World 2024 at the World Cheese Awards. Don’t miss the Fundão Gastronomic Festival – “Aqui Come-se Bem – Sabores da Cereja”, running through June, where local restaurants, bakeries, and bars showcase cherry-inspired creations. Tickets: €86/adult, €55/child (ages 4–12). Bookings available on the CP website.
Just to be pedantic, Lisbon actually has two patron saints: São Vicente and Santo António. Festivities for the latter are the most fun, for sure!