Friday Briefing: From Coimbra with love

Good morning and welcome to PORTUGAL DECODED. Carlos Paredes, the legendary Portuguese guitar player who would have turned 100 this Sunday, deserves a place on your playlist - especially today.

TALK OF THE TOWN

Photo credit: Serge Cohen

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POLITICS

The Government’s first cabinet reshuffle has drawn scrutiny after one appointee was linked to contracts with a law firm previously co-owned by Prime Minister Luís Montenegro until 2022 (More).

The press widely reported Portugal’s decline to its lowest-ever ranking in the 2024 Corruption Perceptions Index. However, it has emerged that the index is not based on public surveys but on the evaluations of eleven unnamed experts (More).

SOCIETY

The Lisbon City Council is set to impose a complete ban on tuk-tuks in much of the city’s historic centre, emphasizing the need to balance tourism activity with the preservation of the city’s historic charm (More).

The founder and CEO of a Portuguese digital health unicorn has withdrawn his proposal to introduce an AI-powered system for INEM national emergency services, labeling its information system as “outdated and fragile” (More).

ECONOMICS

Portuguese exports grew by 2.5%, while imports increased by 1.9% in 2024. Yet, the trade deficit still widened by €78 ($81) million, reaching €27.887 ($29) billion at the end of last year (More).

The Lisbon’s appeal court has overturned a €225 ($232) million fine against the so-called “banking cartel” formed by eleven major banks in the housing loan market due to the expiration of the statute of limitations in the case (More).

CULTURE AND SPORTS

Chinese dissident artist Ai Weiwei was barred from entering Switzerland after authorities refused to recognize his extended Portuguese visa by processing delays. Weiwei claims a border agent told him: “This is Switzerland, not Portugal” (More).

Portugal’s sports teams have made history this week with groundbreaking achievements in rugby and basketball, while track cyclist Iúri Leitão added to the success with a gold medal at the European Championships (More).

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DECODER

Who was Carlos Paredes?

If you’ve ever delved into the depths of Portuguese music, you’ve likely encountered the work of Carlos Paredes (1925–2004), one of the most influential and revered musicians of the 20th century. Nicknamed “O Homem dos Mil Dedos” (The Man with a Thousand Fingers), Paredes was a virtuoso of the Portuguese guitar, shaping generations of musicians both at home and abroad while bringing the instrument to a wider audience. His devotion to the guitar was so profound that, after losing it during a flight, he is said to have contemplated suicide. In December 1993, he was diagnosed with myelopathy, forcing him to stop playing. Paredes passed away on July 23, 2004, and was laid to rest in Lisbon’s Prazeres Cemetery.

How did he learn to play the guitar?

Born in Coimbra into a family with a deep-rooted tradition of guitar playing, Carlos Paredes was taught the Portuguese guitar by his father, Artur Paredes, a pioneering figure in the Coimbra style of the instrument. He completed his primary education at João de Deus Kindergarten before attending Passos Manuel High School in Lisbon. During this time, he received formal musical training in violin and piano but ultimately chose to dedicate himself entirely to the guitar under his father’s guidance. At just 14, he began performing alongside his father in a weekly program on public broadcaster *Emissora Nacional. While his father’s influence was instrumental, Carlos spent countless hours refining his technique, developing the rapid fingerpicking and intricate melodic structures that would define his unmistakable style.

Carlos Paredes Tribute in Amadora by Odeith via Street Art Cities

Did he distinguish himself beyond the music scene?

Yes. A committed anti-fascist from a young age, Carlos Paredes was arrested in 1958 for his affiliation with the Portuguese Communist Party (PCP), which was illegal at the time. Tried in a plenary court in 1959, he was sentenced to 20 months in prison. Fellow inmates recall him pacing the prison yard, strumming an imaginary guitar and composing music in his head. Released after 18 months, he was placed under police surveillance and dismissed from his job as a public servant, severely limiting his professional opportunities. Despite his arrest, Paredes remained steadfast in his ideals, frequently performing at anti-dictatorship events for free, helping to raise funds for the families of political prisoners and supporting the resistance. After the April 1974 revolution, his music became part of the soundtrack of change—his compositions were used on national television to announce Portugal’s first free elections to the Constituent Assembly.

What are his most iconic works?

Perhaps his most famous piece is “Verdes Anos,” a hauntingly beautiful melody written for the 1963 Portuguese drama film of the same name. In 1971, he released what is widely considered his masterpiece, the album “Movimento Perpétuo” (Perpetual Motion), featuring stunning compositions such as “António Marinheiro,” “Mudar de Vida,” and the title track. Following the revolution, he released “É Preciso um País” (A Country is Needed) in 1975, a collaboration with poet Manuel Alegre, where Alegre’s verses were accompanied by Paredes’ evocative guitar. In 1988, his album “Espelho de Sons” (Mirror of Sounds) debuted at number three on Portugal’s album sales chart. Other standout pieces include “Variações em Ré Maior,” a masterful exploration of variations in D major that blends traditional Fado with classical techniques, and “Concerto em Fá Sustenido,” a more complex, extended composition that showcases Paredes’ ability to elevate the Portuguese guitar to a concert-level instrument.

How is the centennary of his birth being celebrated?

The centenary of Carlos Paredes’ birth will be honored with Variations for Carlos Paredes, a multidisciplinary program spanning multiple geographies, disciplines, and creative fields. On Saturday, the Convento São Francisco in Coimbra will host 100 Paredes, featuring a community orchestra and choir, alongside various artists and collectives. A Commemorative Concert follows in Lisbon (Feb 16, Aula Magna), bringing together renowned musicians. Pianist Mário Laginha will present Carlos Paredes por Mário Laginha in Braga (Feb 21, Theatro Circo) and Espinho (Apr 24, Auditório de Espinho). The Portuguese Guitar Festival (Mar 7-8, Capitólio, Teatro Variedades, Cinema São Jorge, Lisbon) debuts in 2025, dedicating its first edition to Carlos Paredes. On Apr 27, Variations on Carlos Paredes show will take place at Largo de São Carlos, Lisbon. The Espelho de Sons tribute concert series (Jul–Sep, Fado Museum, Lisbon) will showcase performances by Pedro Caldeira Cabral, Paulo Soares, Luísa Amaro (Paredes’ last partner), and others. Beyond Portugal, an International Program will extend the celebration worldwide, with concerts, films, conferences, and exhibitions in 17 cities across 12 countries on four continents.

*Correct after reader José Rocha’s comment. Thank you.

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TIPS OF THE WEEK

Lisbon

RAMOT – António da Costa Cabral

Arquivo Municipal de Lisboa

António da Costa Cabral (1901-1974) took up photography at an early age, even installing a darkroom in the attic of his house in Lisbon, a passion he maintained throughout his life. He did so extensively while traveling, but also at home, where he frequently organized photo sessions with his wife and 12 children. He also roamed the streets of Lisbon, either alone with his Leica camera or in the company of fellow members of the Foto-clube 6×6. To disguise his identity as the 4th Count of Tomar, he signed his works under the pseudonyms Ramot and Marto—anagrams of Tomar. Even so, his own family was astonished when the Photographic Archive team revealed the number of items he had donated: over 14,000 pieces. A glimpse of his world can be seen at the Lisbon Municipal Archive until April 12 in a delightful exhibition that fills every room at 246 Rua da Palma. Mon-Sat | 10 AM - 6 PM | Free admission.

Porto

Mercado Alternativo do Rua

This year, “the coolest market in town” will take place at Garagem Passos Manuel, in downtown Porto, on February 15 and 16, with free entry. Food lovers can enjoy food trucks serving pizzas, burgers, “prego” sandwiches in bolo do caco, suckling pig sandwiches, cookies, and croissants. To pair with the food, there will be more than 10 varieties of craft beer from three national producers, along with a lounge area featuring a cocktail bar. The venue will also host several tattoo artists offering flash tattoos and the musical atmosphere will be set by DJ sets on both days. Another highlight of the market is the sale of second-hand items, where visitors can find a wide range of jewelry, accessories, home decor, clothing, bags, and books. Garagem Passos Manuel, the venue for this edition, is an iconic Art Deco building that typically functions as a parking garage but is also used for various events.

Douro

Almond Blossom Route

After sold-out trips in 2024, the Almond Blossom Route that allows passengers to get to know the Douro region on board a historic train and also watch the natural spectacle of almond trees in bloom and taste traditional sweets, returns bringing new features. In this edition, a café and bar service will be available on the train, aboard a restored restaurant carriage by CP. There are possible programs, and in one of them it will also be possible to choose to have lunch at the Côa Museum, one of the largest in the country, enjoying a menu filled with delicacies that includes local products. The route takes place on Saturdays and Sundays, on February 15, 16, 22, and 23, as well as March 1 and 2. The train departs from Porto Campanhã at 7:25 AM and arrives at Pocinho at 10:48 AM. On the return journey, the train leaves Pocinho at 5:12 PM, with an expected arrival at Porto São Bento at 8:30 PM. The cost of each round-trip journey is €76 (Program 1) or €51 (Program 2) per adult, and €39 (Program 1) or €26 (Program 2) for children aged 4 to 12. Discounts are available for groups.

Vila do Conde

Villa Sessions - Vila do Conde Blues Festival

If you’re a fan of blues, live music, and good vibes, this one is for you: already in its 9th edition, this festival will take place at the Vila do Conde Municipal Theater from February 20 to 23, promising a true celebration of music. Musical highlights include concerts by: Dik Banovich; Demian Domínguez; Gennaro Porcelli RR Band; Peter Storm & The Blues Society and Guests; Brigitte Purdy and Ricky Z; Blues at School Combo. But the festival offers more than concerts: there’s a Blues At School training program, the Villa Sessions Guitar Riff Contest, masterclasses, workshops, showrooms, talks, jam sessions, and much more—there will be plenty of exciting activities for all audiences. Tickets here.

Tavira

Sol de Inverno

The Sol de Inverno Festival (“Winter Sun Festival”), which kicked off on January 18, returns to Jardim do Sapal in Tavira on February 15 for its second day of activities. This free event offers a full day of activities, including a Sambambas concert, street food, a market, sports (with a skateboard ramp), and a children’s play area. Aimed at families and even pets, the festival seeks to combat seasonality by promoting outdoor cultural activities during the Algarve’s low season. Festivalgoers are encouraged to arrive early (11h00 - sunset) and bring a blanket to enjoy the event. The festival is organized by Associação Cultural Clube de Tavira, the Tavira Parish Union, and the Municipality of Tavira.

Faro

8th International Guitar Festival

Coinciding with the centenary of the birth of Portugal’s greatest guitar player, the 8th edition of Faro’s Guitar Festival takes place this weekend. The highly anticipated event will feature eleven exceptional concerts at several landmark venues across Faro, including the Algarve Regional Conservatory, João de Deus High School, Clube Farense, Igreja da Misericórdia, the Algarve Regional Museum, Teatro Figuras, and Teatro Lethes. The highlights of the artistic programme are the participation of Australian guitarist Tommy Emmanuel on Saturday, February 15 at the Teatro das Figuras, and the Masterclasses at the Algarve Regional Conservatory. More information here.